Savannah to Cumberland Island

We blasted straight through the state of Georgia, stopping only to anchor and sleep. Our favourite parts of Georgia are Savannah, which is on the Northern edge of Georgia and Cumberland Island, which is at the Southern edge.  The route through the middle is pretty much swamps with an endless maze through low, grass covered islands.

Following our regular routine we spent the daylight hours taking turns driving and then anchoring out in a quiet secluded spot at night. There are seven or eight foot tides in Georgia, which makes for a lot of current as all that water moves back and forth from the ocean. Evenings were spent curled up watching movies on the laptop (because it was too cold to sit outside) while listening to the constant swish, splash and slap of water rushing along our hull.

We decided to spend a couple of days at Cumberland Island. This island was once home to a large estate of the Carnegie Family (who made a lot of money in Pittsburgh in the steel industry). The main mansion was later abandoned, burned down and all that remains are the ruins, a few smaller but stately homes, and the horses, which are now wild. The horses are fascinating to watch. They seem to have a social order, with one large mail being the dominant one.  As they sauntered up from the field in a long line, they all checked in with him as they approached and he would nod his approval then send them past.  Except in one case.  An older mare approached and I don't know what she'd done, but he gave her a brisk scolding, with lots of neighing and snorting, and she walked away with head hung low.

Much of the island is dedicated as a park and it is absolutely beautiful, covered with large gnarly oaks draped in Spanish moss.  It reminds me of a place one might expect to see hobbits scurrying about.  Not to mention the gorgeous wide beach which when the tour boats leave is pretty much deserted.

We've passed through some very industrial areas as well.  There are many busy ports along this coast, with several large inlets leading to the Atlantic Ocean to cross.  We've shared channels with freighters and a multitude of fishermen, all vying for their spot (we let the freighters win).  Also, there have been strong winds and small craft advisories issued for the past few days which have made for some "bumpy" crossings.  No worries.  Nothing Gran Vida and crew can't handle safely.

We are now in St. Augustine Florida visiting with our friends Joe and Connie, from the boat Chesapeake.  St Augustine is a beautiful, very historic town. In fact, they say it's the oldest city in the U.S.   Joe and Connie have a car here.  They very graciously took us to the grocery story to stock up and on a tour to check out St. Augustine and area all decked out for Christmas.  We are docked right beside a bar/restaurant and as I type I'm listening to the live entertainment.  It's been a great visit and so nice to spend time with Joe & Connie again.  Tomorrow we'll push off and continue our journey South.

Wilmington NC to Savannah GA

We didn’t want to push old Pearl the Perkins Diesel Engine too hard on the first day out so we took a slow run to South Port, which was only a couple of hours away.  This decision was also influenced by the fact that the first mate came down with a nasty bladder infection and needed some convalescence.  Also, there was a full day of heavy rain predicted.  So, with antibiotics working their magic (my doctor graciously gave me some to keep onboard), I curled up under blankets in the V-berth and shivered while Jeff occupied himself with computer games, chores and tending to the sick.  The rain teamed down steadily all day. 

Since then our week has pretty much kept to the same routine: we get up early and travel during the daylight hours, then anchor out in some secluded, peaceful spot at night.  It’s been chilly but mostly sunny and quite pleasant. The evidence of the spring flooding and storm damage was everywhere.  Forest floors were under water and occasionally the channel must have been silted in.  We were occasionally surprised to see our depth gauge flicker some alarmingly low numbers. We’ve seen tons of dolphins, pelicans and various sea birds but no snakes or alligators.  Once, we’re pretty sure we saw a wild boar swim across the channel in front of us but he scampered into the tall grass onshore before we could confirm.  It was something big and definitely "swine-like"!

Today we took a marina break in Savannah for laundry and to re-provision the boat.  Tomorrow we’ll get back into our routine.  With the boat all stocked we can easily stay out for a week or more.  It has occurred to us a few times that maybe next year we’ll leave the boat a little more South so we won’t have this long journey before we get to where we’re going…  the beach!!  

Our plans?  We’re thinking we’ll find a good month-long deal at a nice marina and settle in for a while.  We’re not sure where yet.  We’ll just let it unfold.

We're Floating

Finally, after a couple of weeks of waiting and working, Gran Vida was launched today.  It was an interesting adventure.  Our old generator, affectionately known as Genny, had served us well over the years but was getting tired and having a few issues.  She really was overkill at this point for what we needed.  We had removed our electric stove a few years ago and replaced it with an Origo cooktop that uses Methyl Hydrate for fuel, we have solar panels, a little inverter charges our electronics. A small portable generator tops up any gaps.  Our power needs are met just fine and we can stay at anchor for ages with no problem.  It was time for Genny to say bye-bye.  But how to get 'er out that hole in the floor?

This is how it went:  They got us up in the slings and drove the travel lift over to their old boom truck, which looks like it would make a better planter than a functional piece of equipment.  Then they very carefully extended the boom through the back door of the boat and into the salon, hovering over poor 'ol Genny hiding there beneath her hatch in our floor.  With a lot of guidance and communication, they carefully positioned the boom, hooked Genny, gently lifted her out through the glass sliding door and she was gone.  Easy-breezy. (At least for me, standing back and taking pictures).

Then came the launch.  With a little coaxing, a bit of fan-dangling below by the captain, a few cranky coughs and a big puff of exhaust, Pearl the trusty Perkins diesel engine sprang to life.  Hooray!  Gran Vida lives!

We are now tied here on the dock at the boatyard, being bounced around by the retreating tide.  Oh yeah, tides.  We'll have to brush up on the tide charts.  Tomorrow we'll be on our way.  We're not really sure how far we'll travel or where we'll end up, just South, taking it day by day.

Life in the Boatyard

So, this place is a little rough around the edges. Don't get me wrong, it's a GREAT boatyard. Everything one would want in a boatyard, this place is.  Skilled tradesmen, access to tools, secure location, etc etc. We've been here for two weeks now, living and working on the boat.  We've got lots done:  the bottom is all scraped, sanded and re-coated with antifouling; the V-berth is painted and a new foam mattress is in place; the head has been repainted and updated.  Everything is cleaned and organised. 

It's been raining heavily for the past several days with flood warnings throughout the area.  The boat yard is a muddy mess (not flooded, thank goodness, but muddy).  The next couple of days is forecasted to be warm and sunny.  Perfect for a little well-deserved break!  So, with the top down on the Mustang, off to Myrtle Beach we went.  We checked into an ocean front hotel with a great view and several pools/hot tubs to nurse our weary muscles.

Our final job at the boat yard, the removal of our old generator, is scheduled for Monday. Providing that goes according to plan, we'll launch and be off and putt-putt-putting down that river, heading South.