Crossing to Bahamas - Day One

To take our older coastal cruiser out into the Atlantic, cross the gulf stream and get to the Bahamas in comfort, we pretty much insist on perfect conditions.  Wind speeds in the single digits with no northern component, waves less than a metre (preferable MUCH less than a metre), and no weather (squalls, thunder, etc.) forecasted. Sometimes in the winter we have to wait a long time for such conditions and this year was no exception.  We were provisioned and ready to go by mid December but the weather gods were not cooperating.

Finally, a window appeared that looked pretty close:  half metre waves, twelve knot winds building State side later in the day but we should be well out of the way by then, no rain.  Tired of waiting.  Close enough.  Off we went.

Heading out into the Atlantic

It is a three day trip.  Day one across the gulf stream from Florida to West End Bahamas.  Day two:  across the Bahamian banks to Great Sale Cay, an isolated island anchorage.  Day three: Great Sale Cay to Green Turtle Cay, with the charming town of New Plymouth and quaint little Leeward Marina.

Sunrise.  So beautiful!

Day One:  We left at 6:23 a.m. at first light, following our buddy boat Mary Rose who had the route programmed into their auto pilot. We hand steer and I, for one, appreciate having something to follow.  It makes it much easier once out of sight of land with no reference point to steer by.  The morning started off calm and we enjoyed a breathtakingly beautiful sunrise over the Atlantic soon after we left.

Follow that dot ahead.  It's Mary Rose.

By midday, as expected, the waves began to build.  We knew the last half of the ride would be bouncy, and it was.  But then those winds picked up.  We started to see whitecaps so we knew the winds must be higher than the twelve knots forecasted and they kept climbing.

A little bouncy at first but not too bad.

Soon, we found ourselves in four to five foot waves with occasional six to eight footers, all on the beam, three seconds apart.  Yikes!  In our little rolly-polly trawler that meant holding on tight and despite having everything lashed down, well, stuff was flying everywhere.  Our radar mast came loose and was flopping back and forth.  Jeff struggled to take it down and secure it while being awkwardly flung around the flybridge. Hold on tight, Jeffy!  I would have had a hard time finding you in that mess if you were flung overboard!  At least, as we were hand steering, we were able steer into the bigger waves to control our roll a bit but that only took us off course and meant we'd have to correct later, so we tried to avoid it as much as possible.  It made for a very long unpleasant six hours, with sore muscles building from bracing ourselves and holding on tight.  The worst stretch being the last hour in the shallower water as we approached shore.  We had no choice but to take those big waves directly on the beam.  Yowzers!

We entered the channel at West End, very much appreciating the calm protected water and in plenty of time to check in through customs without a problem.  The customs guard was quite official at first but I soon got him chatting.  He was interested in hearing about winter in Canada.  Apparently he's a big fan of the tv show Ice Road Truckers.  Too funny.  We had intended to anchor out but feeling frazzled from our "thrilling" ride across, we were lucky enough to grab the last spot at the dock to tie up overnight with Mary Rose rafted off our port.  They only charged us for one boat.  Nice.

Celebratory adult beverages!

Warm showers and a few adult libations later we, with other boaters that had been surprised by the conditions out there, learned that the the winds were pretty much double what was forecasted.  A guy on a sailboat with a wind monitor said they measured in the low twenty knots with gusts.  The weather that was supposed to hit far west of us had changed it's mind. Ugh. That  explained a few things.  Lesson learned.  We won't go out there again unless there is NOTHING but fair winds and calm seas across the whole area.